Saturday, June 28, 2014: Exploring Lima
We had an early flight out of Cusco flying into Lima. It was a short one hour flight and Lima was actually a (long) layover for us as part of our flight back to NY. Once we landed in Lima, we stowed our luggage at the airport and jumped in a taxi for downtown. As we drove through the city, we immediately noticed a huge difference in air quality. The air felt so dense and polluted in Lima compared to Cusco. In addition, Lima felt a lot more like a metro city whereas Cusco had much more indigenous people. It was almost like we were in a different country! We took a taxi to the city center where we saw a historical buildings and architecture with a fountain in the middle of the square. It was very underwhelming and at that point, I realized that there probably wasn't a whole lot to explore and see in Lima. After walking around the square for a little while and snapping some photos, we walked over just a few blocks to the Church of San Francisco. Apparently there was mass going on and there were lots of people gathered outside and a huge line. There were so many pigeons flying around and small street vendors selling snacks and flowers and religious products. Peter bought some amazing churros here. They were so good, we bought another. He also had some quail eggs from a street vendor, but there was something about pigeons flying around that took my appetite away. I did really enjoy the best churro ever though. We took a taxi to Miraflores where we stopped by a supermarket called Wong (a huge chain) and bought some snacks. We were ready for a meal and decided to go eat at Rosa Nautica based on a recommendation from Wayki Trek. The food was very very underwhelming which we were so disappointed about because Lima was supposed to be a big foodie city. We ordered a bunch of seafood given that it was a seafood restaurant and had high expectations for ceviche since Lima was known for the ceviche. It was also very average. Perhaps we just don't like ceviche? But that's so weird because I love sushi. I must commend that the views from Rosa Nautica was amazing though. We ate right on the pier just over the Pacific ocean. It was a gloomy and cloudy day, but we made the most out of it with the great views of the coast from Rosa Nautica.
Lima city center
Lima city center
Lima city center
Lima city center
Lima city center
Lima city center
Lima city center; walking over to Church of San Francisco
Church of San Francisco
pigeons galore
Someone's excited for quail eggs
Miraflores district
Steps down to the coast
Me and Peter
View of Rosa Nautica
Walking along the ocean - there were a lot of people surfing/learning how to surf
Gloomy and cloudy - we couldn't tell if it was smog
Little crabs everywhere
Peter's favorite restaurant in the world (not)
We sat outside - this was our view. Amazing ocean view.
Peter's view facing the coastline
Lunch at Rosa Nautica
the steps we climbed in Miraflores
Miraflores
Walking along the boardwalk in Miraflores where the Pacific Ocean hugs the coast
View of the coastline of the Pacific Ocean
View of Rosa Nautica
Miraflores
Miraflores boardwalk view
After lunch and walking along the boardwalk for a bit, we realized that there really wasn't that much to see and do in Lima. We opted to walk around the popular (and extremely westernized) outdoor mall at Larcomar Shopping Center. All the stores there were from the US. There was even a pinkberry where they had these goldenberries topping that I really wanted to try and Peter said they were really good when he had them in Vancouver. They weren't that good here in Lima though - they look like little yellow cherry tomatoes.
The world cup was going on and people at the shopping center was gathered around to watch
The main reason why we wanted to pay a visit to Lima was to eat at Astrid y Gaston. It was named in the top 20 of the World's 50 Best Restaurants by San Pellegrino. We had so much time to kill between lunch and our dinner reservations (which were such a pain to make by the way because the restaurant was in the process of relocating from Miraflores to their current location in Casa Moreyra in San Isidro. We were originally going to just take a taxi from Miraflores to San Isidro district but Peter had the brilliant idea of walking there since we had so much time to kill. I'm so glad we did because I felt like we truly got to experience/explore the different Lima neighborhoods, particularly the residential areas, by walking. We passed through busy main streets where we were able to pop in and out of stores to browse souvenirs. We then crossed over to quieter streets where all the local residents lived. Many of the homes we passed by were beautiful and super luxurious looking. They reminded me of the big homes of rich Jewish communities in Brooklyn, NY.
After walking for about 45mins, we finally got here just a little early for our reservations. The restaurant at Casa Moreyra was stunning.
So elegant looking
We're finally here!! We are ready for a good meal in Peru.
Waiting to be seated
We enjoyed a lengthy and informative tasting menu that took us through the journey of 5 different landscapes of Peru:
- The Pacific Ocean
- The Desert
- The Andes
- The Altiplano (High Plain)
- The Amazon
We enjoyed 29 courses (most I've ever had on a tasting menu!) and we were just stuffed. Each course was so unique and I loved that each dish represented a part of Peru. The plating was beautiful and the service was relaxed and discreet. We especially loved one of our waitresses who was super friendly and down to earth. The meal itself was super delicious and gastronomic! Let's walk through what we had that night:
Casa Hacienda Moreyra
Starters were: Spirit (Johnny Walker Black Label alcoholic drink) - good but strong for me
Roots and herbs (delicate flakes of bread/cracker) with a delicious fluffy butter cream
Olives (the 3 balls in bottom left corner)
Carrots, squid ink (little green plate in the bottom left corner)
Anticucheras skins (3 chips with 3 different fillings: chicken, pork, fish)
The Pacific Ocean
Sea prawn and pickles - I think this was my favorite bite of the night. I think the prawn was raw but the delicate orange coating on top made it look cooked
To the very left is Anchovy alfajor
To the very right of the plate is Seaweed, peach
Melon cucumber, sea urchin and clams Ceviche
Pisco beach
Lobster, pacae, maca
The Desert
Memories of Cantalloc
Southern asparagus
Mackarel escabeche
Crab, stinging nettle
The Andes
Corn, cheese, rocoto
Purple potato
Huatia
Huatia - to accompany the potatoes above
Frutillada, molle
The Altiplano
Quinoa sprouts
Trout, custard apple, duck
Beef shank, watercress
Oca, lamb, sage
The Amazon
Toasted pig jowl, sachaculantro
Chocolate
Aguaje, lucuma, purple corn
Zapote, lima
La Tasta Cafe finca, cold extraction
Coins
After dinner, the staff called a taxi for us to head back to the airport for our flight back home, but before we left, we asked if could have a tour of the kitchen. We even got to say hi to the head chef
Diego Munoz!
There he is!
Completely stuffed at the end of our meal. It was delightful, and just the perfect ending to one memorable and amazing trip!!!