Sunday, July 20, 2014

Peru: Porter's Village

Monday, June 23, 2014: Porter's Village (Wayki Experience)

We had a long list of errands to run prior to beginning our 5 day journey in unknown conditions (unknown to me and Andrew that is). I needed to make sure I can take care and find a solution to my contacts situation and we needed to go to the Wayki office for our Inca Trail briefing at 10am. After having breakfast at the hotel, we headed straight to the briefing with our packed backpacks and gear. The briefing was helpful, we paid the remaining balance due for the hike/tour, met most of the people we would be hiking with, and discussed our itinerary in detail, managed expectations, and had our last minute questions answered. After the briefing, we had time to get lunch and run errands before heading out for the porter's village ("PV"). Not everyone in our tour signed up for this -- this was when I started to question whether we should have signed up for this!


Luckily, I was able to find an optical store that sold my Acuvue Oasys contact lenses - though I had to pay a fortune for them: $145USD for 2 boxes! Sigh. Oh well! It was worth it because I had no doubt I needed them. It took us a while to do this, but we still had some time to grab a bite. Andrew and I had these great pork sandwiches (spicy!) sold in small deli/restaurants near the Wayki office (we were being extra cautious about what we were eating) while Peter opted for street fare, where he had the most amazing fried chicken. I had a bite and it was heavenly, but I was worried my stomach could not handle the grease and questionable handling of the food since I was already feeling slightly off the past few days from altitude. The streets were super crowded with festivals and parades going on everywhere - we were visiting Cusco at a good time; it was the winter solstice and tons of celebrations were going on in the streets. Andrew and I even had time to quickly browse the street stands for a few quick souvenirs.

We met at the Wayki office, packed our duffel bag for the extra porter we hired, and hopped into our van en route to PV. The ride wasn't long - we made a stop where we were highly encouraged (hence the stop!) to purchase gifts for the porters' families. We picked up some groceries and toys as gifts. Upon arriving to PV, we had to hike up to the porter's home from the road on this super steep hill. I thought I was going to die - I had such a hard time climbing up which made me panic about the days ahead of me.
We slept around the corner from them in tents

Stunning view of rural Peru from porter's village

After settling in a bit, we were sent into the fields to help the farmers harvest corn. After all, this is what we signed up for -- experiencing what it's like to live like them! This was my favorite part of the PV experience - being on the field and harvesting crops. We had a great time and learned a lot from our kind guide. The farmers also offered us Chicha (corn beer) which was delicious! I really enjoyed it but did not take more than one sip given the sanitary conditions. We were also offered a variety of corn, beans, and potatoes in a bag with a spicy dipping (cheese?) sauce. I had a few pieces but was worried sick that I would get sick from eating with my dirty farming hands and food coming out of a rice bag. It was fun nonetheless doing and trying new things! Our work was done and we headed back to the house to have dinner in the kitchen.

Passing by donkeys in the fields

The girls are so comfortable with their animals and vice versa. So cute!

Harvesting corn on the fields

Having a great time :)

The produce from our harvest!

Corn fields and porter's village

Animals grazing about the land

Our mid-day snack of corn, potatoes, and beans


Sunset sky

[Left] Chickens hanging out in the porter's yard [Right] Peter helping porter's wife prepare dinner

The porter's wife made us a big dinner of cheese, potatoes, and other things I've never had before. It was a humble dinner, but truly authentic. After dinner, we moved from the kitchen to the "living room" where we met with the village's kids - they sang for us and we danced to some Peruvian music. It was very awkward in that it definitely felt forced but what did we expect lol. Afterwards, we distributed the gifts we brought - I wish we had more to share, we didn't know the whole village was going to show up! It was a long night and most of us were ready for bed. The tents were ready for us and we got acquainted with sleeping outdoors next to the outhouse for the night on a hill (mind you, it was on an incline so it felt as if we were sliding the whole night) with a range of animals surrounding us. It was intense. The night was really cold. I woke up in the middle of the night between freezing and having to pee really bad. I tried to hold it in but I could not hold it in. I woke up Andrew so he could help me navigate how to piss in the great outdoors. I knew the outhouse was quite harsh so I opted to just pee on the grass out in the open since it was pitch dark and no one was around (thank god for our headlamps and Andrew's Surefire - more on that later). Before going back to bed, I took all the clothes I brought with me and layered on at least 6 more layers to get warm so I could sleep. It was a rough night to say the least. I almost cracked. If anyone suggested returning home that night, I would have happily followed. This made me extremely nervous for the Inca Trail. We had to do this for 3 more nights and I seriously started to doubt whether I could make it.

Peru: Sacred Valley Tour

Sunday, June 21, 2014: Sacred Valley Tour

After waking up and enjoying breakfast at the hotel, we were picked up bright and early for our Sacred Valley Tour. We booked the Sacred Valley Tour the night before for 40 Soles per person (~$14USD) which included a lunch buffet.

No thanks to my mistake of trusting that my daily contacts would work, I had serious issues with my contacts during this whole trip! I wore my glasses for a good portion of trip and ended up purchasing my usual contacts at a local vision store and paid a fortune for 2 boxes ($145USD for 2 boxes of contacts! UGH). Thank god Andrew forced me to take care of the contact situation and persuaded me to suck it up and pay up because I seriously don't think I would have been able to do the Inca Trail wearing my glasses which have an old prescription! Andrew is always the more sensible one between the two of us :) That's why I love him (okay, you can gag now). 

Our tour was a pooled group of about 20+ people, and luckily the bus was pretty nice and comfortable.


The first break stop was a non-bustling market where there were lots of shops for typical souvenirs (these shops were all over Cusco)

Our first official site stop was at Pisac

 Pisac

Pisac - the holes are tombs where they used to bury people

What great people to travel with :)


 Second stop: Ollantaytambo - it was so crowded!

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo - can you spot the face of the God of Gods?

How about now?

The weather was perfect everyday.

 Loved the valleys and terrain


Our last stop was in Chinchero - we got here past sunset and it was really cold by night time. We sat through a presentation of how alpaca wool is made. This was a great marketing scheme as most people ended up buying the same typical souvenirs from these ladies after the presentation. They claim that everything is handmade but it is strange that we saw the same designs and items throughout Cusco and Peru at all the local shops...

Chinchero - not much to see here as it was really dark by time we got there

We got back to Cusco from the tour and took another walk through San Pedro market. We wanted to get more fresh sugar cane juice but the stand was not there today. After walking around for a bit and picking up some groceries (mainly just water and last minute supplies we needed), we decided to have Chifa for dinner. Chifa is Peruvian Chinese food and I had heard great things about it. Being Chinese, I definitely wanted to try it to see how it compares to Chinese food. Perhaps we didn't go to a good place to have Chifa but we were not impressed. It definitely reminded me more of take-out style Chinese food, and it lacked the "wok flavor". 

Chifa - Peruvian Chinese food. Left is a sweet and sour type dish and the right is a stir fry. 

After dinner, we walked back to our hotel to go to prepare our bags as our hike begins tomorrow! I definitely tried to enjoy my last evening where I had access to shower, bed, and toilet!

Peru: Cusco

Saturday, June 21, 2014: Landing, Acclimating, and Exploring

This trip took a decent amount of planning, but even then I was underprepared. After traveling for 16 hours (including layovers in Panama City and Lima), we finally landed in Cusco on Saturday morning at 7am. As soon as we got off the airport, we got G-ed by a guy who worked at the airport whom helped us with our bags and claimed he was from the hotel (since we were expecting hotel pick up at the airport, and I asked him to confirm to which he lied to our faces. SMH). Peter tipped him $5 USD after he demanded one; he deserved about 50 cents....SOLES. We were all pretty jet lagged and tired from all the traveling so once we checked into our hotel, we decided to rest/nap until noon.
Tierra Viva Saphi - our hotel in Cusco. Amazing hotel. Super clean, modern, spacious, and great service. Highly recommended!

After our nap, I felt the altitude sickness kick in. I woke up with a headache and definitely had a loss in appetite. We hadn't eaten all day, but despite the fact, I wasn't really hungry. We decided to venture out to explore the city and main square, which was only a 10 minute walk from our hotel.

Plaza de Armas in the main square on a gorgeous day. We had perfect weather everyday.

We originally wanted to have lunch at Cicciolina (had good reviews on TripAdvisor) but got there a few mins before they stopped serving lunch so they turned us away (kind of a dick move on their part because it wasn't even time yet...we still had a few mins!) and recommended their "sister" restaurant, Baco. We were not too impressed with the meal, but in hindsight...we weren't crazy about Peruvian food in general so this restaurant was decent relative to our other meals. 

Inca Cola - a bubble gum/tutti-frutti flavored soda. So unique!

[Left] Lomo saltado - beef stir fry with tomatoes and onions with rice and fries
[Right] Cuy - guinea pig. Not a big fan but definitely a local delicacy

After lunch, we continued to wander about Cusco, exchanged money (~$1 gets you about 2.76S), and checking out the local streets and markets. We ended up in San Pedro market just as the sun was setting.

Churros! I love churros, but these were not great. We had the best churros in front of San Francisco church in Lima.

Local food stands - there were so many of these stands being enjoyed by locals around Cusco. Only 1 sol (~30 cents!) for an order of rice with fried egg and tomatoes. Peter and Andrew really liked these.

[Left] Fresh coconuts! So yum! [Right] Fresh sugar cane juice - sooooo delish. We wanted to come back for more!

Peru's street meat

San Pedro market at sunset

San Pedro Market - so many exotic fruits!

After walking around for a bit, we returned back to the main square to get massages! We got one hour massages for only 30 soles (~$11)....all I can say is you get what you pay for! But $11 is pretty cheap. It was more of a back rub than a massage though. Peter hated the massage experience lol.

Getting our massages - the flash revealed the dirty walls and made us feel a bit uneasy.

We were ready to have dinner after our massages, and originally wanted to have dinner at Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse but apparently you need reservations, which was such a bummer. We weren't having a lot of luck checking out the places we planned to eat at. We quickly checked Trip Advisor and found a place near by to eat. Our goal was to try alpaca. We ended up at a place that was next door and we enjoyed smoothies, Peter and Andrew both ordered alpaca steaks, and I had the Aji de Gallina (chicken in a yellow pepper sauce with olives and hard boiled eggs) - the sauce was reminiscent of curry. I didn't have much of an appetite due to the altitude sickness but Peter and Andrew both really enjoyed their alpaca steaks. After dinner, we strolled back to our hotel - it got really chilly at night.

Cusco in the evening/night. It was popping at night in the main square.